Subway Furious Chicken

The Subway Furious Chicken costs £8.59 and comes to 520 kcal in a six inch, which makes it the joint most expensive Signature sub and the fattiest one with published figures. It also has waffle fries in it, inside the sandwich, which tells you most of what you need to know about its intentions.

The build is the busiest on the menu: rotisserie-style chicken, waffle fries, cheese, lettuce, cucumber, red peppers, red onion, jalapenos, garlic and herb sauce, and extra-spicy chipotle southwest. Two sauces, a hot element, a fried element and a full salad load, all decided for you.

The taste is genuinely hot, which is rare on this menu; the extra-spicy chipotle plus jalapenos means this one earns its name where the Spicy Italian does not. Underneath the heat there is garlic from the second sauce and starch from the fries, which soak up sauce and turn the middle of the sandwich soft and rich.

It suits people who want a sub that behaves like a takeaway rather than a lunch, and it delivers on that. The honest catch is right there in the panel: it carries 520 kcal and the highest fat of the Signature subs, plus the fries go soggy on a timer just like the nachos do in the Nacho Ranch. This is an eat-now, eat-in sandwich.

The comparison on the Sandwiches menu is the Tex Mexan, which uses the same extra-spicy sauce with chicken breast, Doritos and salsa, carries more protein, fewer calories and less fat, and costs less. If heat plus numbers is what you are after, the Tex Mexan is simply the better sub. The Furious wins on sheer indulgence.

Value is honest enough: it is the biggest, hottest, most loaded thing on the Signature board and it is priced accordingly. Order it when you want the sandwich to be the event, and do not order it to carry anywhere.